For the first time in 5+ years of checking and testing burgers in Malta and all over Europe, we found one that scored 90+ points in our books. An old age myth says that the Gods of Olympus made men, and then waited for men to create the cheeseburger! The Gods can now come down from the clouds, as we have found a Gold Standard cheeseburger in Malta! That’s right, the first ever MALTAburgers GOLD STAR seal of approval is going to a Cheeseburger!
Never like in 2018, there has been such a peak in quality burgers and a spike in chef inventiveness. Every renown chef and kitchen aficionados are making burgers, even us at MALTAburgers are producing some world shuttering burgers in our kitchen that you can try at home. But coming up with a Gold Standard burger is no easy feat. The Gold is reserved for those burgers that are exceptional beyond belief. Those meat & bread creations that are handcrafted from scratch and display gastronomic techniques that are not usually associated with burger grilling. And now there’s a new standard when it comes to cheeseburgers, a burger of the same calibre as the offerings from Paris New York, Patty & Bun, The Hyde Bar and Burgermeister. And it’s all happening at the Gypsy Jazz. Wait! What and where is that?
The Manouche people originate from Northern India but made France their home. This is where the Manouche craft bakery in St. Julians got its name. Everyone knows them for their finesse in the classical preparation of pastries of all sorts. What you might not know is that a few weeks back, they launched a Bistro concept, with 1 burger on the menu. And today it’s Chef Jonathan‘s turn to cook the burgers for the day. He’s been working for 22 years in and out of kitchens, so he definitely knows his trade. We also spot Bjorn, one of the bistro owners, who spent considerable years running a French bistro in the UK.
The burger process starts with the bun, which is made in-house. Actually, every element of this burger is conceived in the bistro’s kitchen, which is quite sophisticated and chockfull of the latest catering machinery and commodities. The preparation is a lengthy process, with no shortcuts or ready-made frozen goods used. It’s the traditional way of making burgers, and the only way you can earn a Gold Star from us! The Manouche milk bun is organic, and is basically a lighter-style brioche, purposely created to hold up as much of the juices that emanate from the meat within its folds. The bun is sliced whilst cold, for a surgical-like clean cut. It is then covered with an egg wash and toasted on both sides. We peeked stealthily whilst Chef Jonathan spread the bun with butter. That’s just one of the secret touches that makes this burger a notch tastier. The soft, sponge-like milk bun is absorbent and malleable and keeps the burger in shape and our hands clean from the sauce. The inclusion of milk and butter in the fermentation process helps the milk bun to get its fascinating golden brown coloured crusty shell. It has a lightly sweet flavour that counteracts the saltiness of the burger and is also a lot less fatty than other bread. Making a burger bun is no easy feat, but just the texture of this crumb deserves all the praise. Manouche have opted to take matters in their own hands and make their own bun, and they have achieved a more than sterling outcome.
The 200gr patty is made from a mix of fresh chuck, brisket & sirloin. Manouche tried out some 15 different suppliers before settling for the ideal cuts of meat for this burger. The meat is slow cooked in Sous Vide at 55°C for one and a half hours, after which it is caramelised in a pan with raw garlic & thyme, which are also cultivated in the area. The protein is caramelised in the pan, whilst basting in butter, and is passed 2 times, using clarified butter and standard butter at the end. We know that Manouche is also using a small percentage of bread crumbs in the patty itself, to help retain more juices. This works phenomenally as the patty is unbelievably beefy and juicy until the last bite. No burger patty is perfect, but this one comes pretty close. There are two thin luscious layers of tomatoes resting under the patty. These do not only have the right diameter to cover the whole patty but are ripened to that just squeezable depth of tender red to provide acidity and a little extra sweetness.
The patty is topped with sliced onions, slowly cooked in butter and thyme. The final and most awaited element of the cheeseburger is the cheese itself. Manouche are using a combination of Gruyere and Comte, for a wide taste of sweet umami with a somewhat nutty profile. Gruyere comes from Switzerland and has a dense and compact texture. It’s slightly grainy but has a wonderful complexity of flavours. Comte, which is a typical French cheese, is often considered one of the finest cheeses in the world. Its texture can vary from silky, flabby to crystalline. By combining these two kinds of cheese from two neighbouring regions of Europe, you get a unique flavour and scent like no other cheeseburger. This alchemy of cheeses, which is very rich and melty, was indeed the highlight of this burger. Manouche have indeed managed to deliver a complete burger package like no other Maltese cheeseburger has ever dared before. It’s gold material reserved for the upper echelons of burger Heaven. Even if you don’t fancy burgers, and only plan to try one burger in 2018, this should be it… it’s an experience that will stay on your mind for days, and you’ll want to keep coming back again and again, no matter the cost!
Nothing is left unturned at Manouche, even the fries. These are made from local potatoes, hand-cut thin, and seasoned with salt. The fries are blanched at 160°C & left resting for no more than 48 hours. They are second fried in sunflower oil at 190°C and served hot. These are amongst the most delicious and crispy fries we tried out this year, and bring along much potato oomph right to your mouth. How they stay blonde and deliver this level of crunch is a well-kept secret. They are served with a roasted garlic aioli sauce and a true guilty pleasure… a smoked tomato chutney. With such distinctive sauces, who needs ketchup!
No visit at Manouche should go by, without the obligatory pastry or four! They concoct all the chocolate in their kitchen, and it shows. Our favourite is the milk chocolate truffle, but the berry port compote is the bomb. It’s made from an apple crumb pastry, with light cream and jam inside, and is topped with charred cream. They also do a salted caramel eclair with walnuts and cream inside, which is yet unrivalled. If you have a sweet tooth you will be drooling at everything that comes out of the kitchen. We know well, as we’ve been there!
