Italian cuisine is a worldwide phenomenon. As Mediterraneans, we Maltese adore Italian food. There’s something intrinsically Italian when you think of Pizza, Pasta… Something is missing, in the magical trio of food-glam… it’s our beloved Burger! Rarely have we seen burgers in classic Italian cookbooks. In the past three years though, burger houses have been sprouting all over Rome, Milan, Naples, Florence… The Marina Club at the Valletta Waterfront wants to ride that wave, and are helming their burger menu with a Gourmet edition of an Italian-flavoured burger. To see if it’s as good as small-talk has it, we need to head off to the Waterfront area in Valletta, a collection of 250-year-old warehouses, originally built by Grand Master Pinto during the baroque era.
Part of the area was devastated during World War 2 and was thoroughly restored in recent years. The doors of the renovated buildings were painted with contrasting shades of colours showing off the different types of goods that were once stored in these vaults from another time. Blue ones stored fish, the green was filled with produce, the yellow housed wheat and the red ones were full of wine canisters.
Our burger of the day is locked in Vault 16. The decor at the Marina Club shines of traditional Maltese Regatta, with a hint of Victorian college rowing culture. Here, diners are considered club members and given the gracious British hospitality reminiscent of typical yacht clubs. Renown artists like Gigi D’Alessio and Michael Bolton have dined here during the past year and a half that the brasserie has been open. Chef Oman leads the kitchen, as he has been here from day one. He’s been working in kitchens since he was a youth, so he surely knows the best ingredients to build an Italian burger to impress.
The 200gr beef patty is made from a mix of whole cuts of brisket & chuck. Chuck has a good lean to fat ratio and a well-balanced flavour. It does not make the perfect meat for a burger on its own though, as it’s not that juicy. You need brisket, with its distinct aroma of liver. Brisket is somewhat grainy when ground, so it provides a good texture for the patty. The end result is a juicy and buttery burger, with a soft and airy texture. It has a palatable and robust flavour which we loved a lot.
The brioche bun is spread with truffle mayo which is a mix of egg yolk and olive oil to produce mayo, laden with shaved truffles. Ancient Romans believed that truffles were of divine origin, so it’s no wonder that these underground tubers are a staple in many Italian dishes. This spread provides a layer of slightly garlicky flavour. It’s earthy and deliciously funky! The same goes for Rocket leaves: these have been used in dishes since the Roman times and are extremely popular in Italian cooking. The dark leaves have a peppery taste similar to watercress and add a level of crunchiness to the whole burger.
No Italian burger would deserve its name without the presence of Parma ham. Prosciutto di Parma is made from legs of pork, cured with sea salt. This keeps the meat as sweet-tasting and as supple as possible. The curing process is controlled so that the ham only absorbs enough salt to preserve it. Hence the meat becomes tender, and the distinctive aroma and flavours of the Parma Ham emerge. It also provides the needed salty element in the concoction of ingredients. The ham is grilled to a level of crispiness that we seldom see in burgers that use bacon as a counterpart. Chef Oman gets a full 5 star on nailing this element alone!
Italy and mozzarella are synonymous. The creamy cheese from Southern Italy is adored by many so that it couldn’t go amiss in our burger. Indeed, it has a starring role. This cheese is produced exclusively from whole buffalo milk, which is heated to a low temperature. It is then left to rest for hours until it can be spun into form. Mozzarella di bufala has a stronger taste and smell, so it stands out from the other ingredients. There’s a reason why this kind of mozzarella was used as it’s a great twist on its cheeseburger cousin!
The burger is served with traditional French fries. Maybe a side of deep-fried gnocchi would have made the burger look more Italian all the way! Though, there’s no mistaking the overall Italian influence in what the Marina Club is offering. The real test is in the taste, and this one passes with flying colours. The ingredients are classic and simple, yet they create a well-balanced burger that is a delicious Italian interpretation of the American classic. Our search for the real Italian burger ends here. Our mission is accomplished. We will definitely be back at the Marina Club, especially since we also loved the limy & minty Lemongrass gin & tonic cocktail, which is a house specialty… even if you are not in the mood for burgers you should try this one out.