(Just Burger was taken over in March 2019 by new Peruvian owners. This feature only reflects the good burger-ship Just Burger did until February 2019.)
A good burger is a thing of beauty. A burger made with traditional Maltese ingredients is even better. We all know that Just Burger have already created numerous burgers with typical Maltese ingredients. So why do we need yet another iteration? This month they took it upon themselves to create the King of all Maltese burgers. So can you blame us for being so hyped up and excited?
Just Burger are promising a satisfying manifestation of all things umami: fine chuck beef, goat cheese, sundried tomatoes, minted aubergines and half a dozen other hidden flavours. There are few culinary things that can do such a job so persuasively at such a price point. The first hint of Maltese-ism comes in the form of a bean salad with black olives and sundried tomatoes. This is definitely on the other end of the spectrum from your usual lettuce and tomatoes. It’s a light, refreshing and brightly-coloured salad which is very reminiscent of the Maltese ftira. Dried tomatoes usually have an intense sweet-tartiness and are much more potent than fresh ones, and these have a good punch of tomato piquancy that adds both texture and acidity, thus accentuating the meat with a nice and exquisite flair. Indeed, there’s a level of flavour harmonizing that screams Maltese from the first bite, as the fruity and oily saturation of the veggie mix pushes the overall burger juiciness into sky-high levels.
On top, there’s the renown Just Burger patty made from 140gr of Black Angus chuck. There’s nothing Maltese about this though as the beef is not local, but the patty has been massaged and hand formed by a Maltese chef! It’s a fairly lean cut of beef, and even though it has a low-fat content it’s tasty and juicy and does not feel dry, even when it’s requested at higher temperatures. It brings an instant hit of beefiness that screams of quality as it has an intense and stomach-pleasing flavour. The patty is loosely packed, but not too much so as to spoil the texture. It’s that sort of steak-quality flavour that truly transcends the whole eating experience. The grill flavour was spot-on throughout, leaving you with an extremely enjoyable aftertaste.
The patty is covered with 2 thick slices of peppered goat cheese. This very Gozitan cheese has a sharp & spicy flavour also due to the peppered cresting. It adds a nuance of tang that is most welcome and different, and its creaminess seems to work much better in an all-Maltese theme than other varieties of cheese. When melted, it cascades over the meat, in a gooey form and has an own aged-flavour presence without taking anything away from the meat. This one is definitely punchy goat cheese at its best!
There’s also a good amount of Maltese sausage present. It’s been sliced thickly and then grilled, bringing in that salty and spicy tinge every Maltese loves. The pork mix is very well-balanced, as it’s neither too fatty nor greasy, and you can instantly taste the typical flavours of sea salt, garlic, coriander seeds and parsley. The amount of sea salt used also makes for a slightly salty sausage that has a bit of crunch and texture thanks to the coriander. And let’s not forget that the Maltese sausage is influenced by the English one but is made in accordance with Portuguese traditions… but to us Maltese, it tastes 100 times better than both! The final element is an aubergine puree, with mint and garlic. This creamy and refreshing puree has important moisture-making duties here, and it’s dosed well. The whole burger is encapsulated in a shiny bun that seems to defy all the combined juices. It’s the right side of dense and an excellent vehicle for the meat.
Just Burger have come up with yet another creation that works in a great way. Every ingredient is layered beautifully on top of each other, and even though it has nothing to do with the actual taste itself, it creates a very appealing visual synergy that sets you off to a ceremonial start. The goat cheese might make this burger look somewhat delicate but it explodes in your mouth like a grenade of burger tastiness, from the moment you take the first few bites! This one is definitely a two-hander so you can laugh in the face of cutlery like a giant toddler. It’s a properly big burger done absolutely right and anchored by an array of wisely chosen local ingredients. It was hardly surprising that our stomachs were well satisfied and roundly full by the very last bite.
