Attard is not a destination particularly renown for burgers. But there is one man who’s set on a well-determined path to change that. His name is Chef Gilbert. Gilbert has been working in kitchens for the past 23 years. For well over a year, he’s been running his own Grill & Steakhouse in Attard, aptly named Wood and Coal. He’s also a pizzaiolo trained in Italy, and won awards for his pizza made with gluten free seed dough and lactose-free mozzarella! But today he’s here to impress with his burger novelties. For the first time in #MALTAburgers history, we’re going to have a tête-à-tête` with a Scottona beef burger, cooked a la Sous vide! We can hear our loving friend Big Bertu the Burgernator exclaim, Scott who?! What kind of Sauce is that?!
The Mushroom Brie burger involves one of the most complicated preparations we’ve seen to date. Any other chef would pop a beef patty on the grill, add some mushrooms and cheese and all is well… but not Gilbert! The burger protein is made from 250gr of Scottoncina meat patty. This is a meat blend taken from different cow parts with around 10-12% fat. Scottoncina is a superior version of Scottona, which is a particular breed of cattle raised in strict habits to produce meat with a balance between muscle mass and the infiltration of fat, to create that much-loved marbling effect with thin veins. It’s also characterised by a succulent flavour and unique tenderness. Not all cattle can become Scottona protein. You’ve heard of myths where cows are massaged for de-stressing, groomed with premiere designer brushes and played classical music. It’s no myth at all, as we’ve seen all this in Italy and Switzerland. The goodness of the meat also depends on both the diet of the animal and the gender. Only young female bovine with good muscular growth is selected since the meat of the female is always softer, tastier and more succulent than that of the male (naturally more stringy). Scottona also goes through a process of ageing, which makes meat even more tender and tastier as it’s left hanging for 30 to 40 days.
Gilbert did not only select this particular prime protein as the base for his burgers but has also pioneered on the local burger scene; a Sous vide preparation.
Sous vide (literally translated from French as “under vacuum”) cooking involves the preparation of meat in sealed plastic bags immersed in hot water. The key factor is to manage the temperature of the water, so it stays hot enough to cook the meat thoroughly and evenly. A circulator (water boiler) keeps a constant temperature of 60°C as the burger patty floats around. Such high-end, thousand-euros immersion circulators can automatically regulate the temperature of the water precisely within fractions of a degree. Cooking-grade vacuum sealed bags are used. Since there’s no transfer of moisture from the meat like with broiling, the meat is much juicier. The cooking temperatures don’t get higher than 60°C, so the patty does not dry out. Sous vide doesn’t alter the texture of the Scottona beef, ending up with a flavourful and moist burger patty.
Just like a pork chop or steak, a precision-cooked burger goes through a two phase process: many minutes in the water bath, followed by searing on the grill. After the lengthy Sous vide process, the patty moves to the grill where it’s charred and finished. The colour and juiciness of meat are related to the temperature in which they’re cooked, and the Scottona patty has gone through an elaborate process to ensure that it comes out as juicy as we’ve ever seen. The flavour is very unique and tasty, and we weren’t expecting any less from such prime cuts of beef. Gilbert did not disappoint. Burgers in Malta have definitely come a long way since the 1980s era of Wimpy, or even the likes of Porky’s Bhima burger from 3 years back.
The beef is topped with a few key ingredients to add even more zest. Portobello mushrooms add a deep savoury flavour. These large, dark brown mushrooms are of the dry variety and have a slightly more pronounced mushroomy taste. A cheese brie goes on top. This is a soft, yellow cheese with an edible rind. The flavour is rich and has a creamy texture. Gilbert has also added a crimson condiment. It’s a cranberry sauce he makes himself. It’s a good idea to introduce a tart, fruity element in this burger. It’s almost chutney-like and does taste good, but we would have liked to get a slightly stronger, more condensed version of this sauce, as sometimes it was absent in some bites.
The burger is presented in a standard brioche bun filled with lettuce and tomatoes, and as everyone has come to expect from anything Gilbert does, you can also opt for gluten free bread.
In only one year of operation, Gilbert has managed to build an amiable concept with Wood & Coal. The rustic interior elements, mixed with modern fixtures create a relaxing environment where to enjoy well-thought out food. We appreciate all the hard work that goes into the making of the Mushroom Brie burger, and will definitely be back for more. For now, we’re gladly giving two big blue thumbs up.
