We’re always enthralled and overexcited when we come across a veggie burger with a congenial concept… and the burger of this week is such a case in point. Today our radar picked up an extreme reading of veggie activity in St. Julian’s. So we’re heading off to the pythonic Pendergardens complex, where U&Co Social Cafe rests at the very pediments. What’s the concept of a social cafe? This stylish diner is designed is a way to bring people together and move them to interact more in person. In a time where communication and socialising have become totally cyber, here’s someone who’s pushing everyone to get back to the roots, and encourage to share our best moments, eating good food and savouring wine! We’re game for that!
Executive chef Mark Borg has 18 years of kitchen experience under his belt. He spent the last 8 years working on different iterations of his signature veggie burger… and the work does not stop here! At U&Co he also comes armed with a well-equipped kitchen, full of new food-making technology! So what’s all the fuss about? Here’s a veggie patty made from a mix of aubergines, pine nuts, onions, fennel, garlic, ginger, chilli and coriander as some of the key ingredients. The patty is topped with 2 slices of grilled halloumi cheese, and all is served in a wholemeal roll with baby spinach and sliced tomatoes. This looks wholeheartedly veggie and promises to taste equally good too.
Many veggie burgers are made with some sort of combination of beans, but here we have one based on the aubergine, one of the most glorious vegetables, although it’s technically a berry! The aubergine pulp tends to have a mild flavour similar to other fruits like squash, but it has its own uniqueness and is slightly more acidic than squash. Plus, the aubergine is a great candidate for grilling. When combined with the crunchy yet buttery texture of pine nuts, this produces a patty that is pleasantly sweet and delicious. These nuts are high in protein content and give beef a run for its money! Chef Mark seems to have hit the jackpot here and found the ideal blend of aubergines and nuts to grill a crunchy patty with a crispy shell, that is not dry and has a very meaty colour too. It has an overall towering thickness, tantalising taste, tremendous texture and most important of all does not crumble apart at first bite.
The patty is interspersed with spices. The chilli brings in some deep zest and the ginger is well measured without being overpowering. There’s an intricate mix of middle-East-meets-Mediterranean flavours here that work well with the aubergine base and when combined together are quite difficult to find a better match for. The aubergine soaks up all the flavours you pair it with, which makes it an ideal canvas for this burger. All is very sublime and scrumptious!
This year we’ve seen an ascension of halloumi burgers, one tastier than the others. Until recent years, halloumi was a niche cheese even amongst vegetarians, but nowadays it seems to have become a staple mainstream, even in beef burgers. This salty cheese from Cyprus, made from sheep or goat milk, has a high melting point, allowing it to be grilled without losing its form and cool. It seems that our love for Mediterranean food and our eagerness to try new cheese combinations in burgers are the main factors that have brought this expensive cheese in the limelight. It also has a very unique taste, which can’t be easily compared with any other cheeses. Its saltiness works pretty well with the aubergine patty, as they produce an irresistible combination.
All the veggies and cheese are contained in a wholemeal bun, drizzled with a very refreshing herb oil made from olive oil, basil, mint. There are two slices of steamed and grilled beetroot rings on top, which are a very particular alternative for onion rings. We love such attention to detail, as this shows that thought and diligence has gone into the making of this burger. These rings bring a further earthy taste and feel to this veggie burger and are the final touch that seals the deal. There’s also a side of sweet potato chips alongside the burger. These tasty and crunchy orange sticks didn’t stay long on the plate, and they were all gone, long before the burger!
U&Co have produced a veggie burger that will leave even the most veggie-phobic of omnivores coming back for a second and third round at this different take on the classic cheeseburger. They are also launching a vegan menu with vegan wine. 2018 is proving to be a very good year to be a vegetarian in Malta!
