2018 is soon coming to an end, yet we persevere on our search for Malta’s premiere burgers made from vegetables. What’s great about veggie burgers is the opportunity to create something unique, with endless flavour combinations, from black bean to rice to exotic vegetables. In 2017 we’ve tried, tasted and tested 19 different vegetable-based burgers, discarded the bland ones and incinerated the cheaters made from frozen soy patties, and barely found 5 to build a hit list. Making a gratifying veggie burger is no child’s play. Was 2018 any different? Whilst others take a shortcut and copy, paste & link lists of 13 random vegetarian burgers they found through Facebook search, just for the sake of plopping commercial adverts on the side, we took our time and went around the Gzira & Sliema area to hunt for new burger offerings. This part of Malta is particularly dense with foreigners working for gaming companies and language students, consequently giving birth to an array of healthy & veggie-friendly eateries. And wherever there is good food, there’s always a good burger. Or so we thought.
We checked the usual suspects (Grassy Hopper, Dr Juice, J’Oli, Eeetwell) but only came across average to OKish burgers at best. We were underwhelmed. We were going to throw the towel and scream defeat from finding any prominent veggie burger, when we came across the Balance Bowl, a hip and trendy eatery hidden between blocks of apartments, that opened its doors some 3 months ago. Founded by three passionate foodies that met in London, these Charlie’s Angels of the veggie world visited Malta regularly before deciding to give a new spin to their livelihood and set up shop here.
Amidst bowls full of green pesto, Asian veggies, pasta, chickpea curry and even an unlimited salad buffet bar, we were lucky enough to stumble across a new burger on the menu they devised just a few days back. Going by the name of The Squashed Tahini, this burger is made from a whole Butternut Squash round as a patty. The concept of not using a mashed patty is very bold here, but make no mistake, it’s not done for novelty’s sake. This is marinated for hours in soy sauce, garlic, pepper and oil and left to cool down before it’s covered in a water & flour paste, breaded in panko and deep fried until it’s glistening and golden. The effect of panko really outshines other breading mixes here. Panko is made from white bread that has no crust, as opposed to the whole wheat variety, and here it creates a crispy, flaky and crunchy texture like no other veggie burger we tried out in Sliema in the last few days.
This patty was inspired by one of the most popular local vegetables, and Ewelina, the top woman in the kitchen, says that they wanted to elevate the bright butternut squash to celebrate locally sourced produce. Indeed this patty is a bomb full of fall flavours, with its sweet zest and soft pumpkin-like texture at the core. It’s so flavorful on its own, that you don’t even need to add much to it. But guess what? There is much added! That comes in the form of Tahini and Hummus which provide more than a kick of spice and flavour flair.
Tahini is a dense paste made from crushed sesame seeds, with hints of lemon juice and a gentle garlic note. This sauce is a staple throughout the Middle East as a dairy-free alternative to cream sauce. It’s a sort of peanut butter, except it’s more nutty and creamier, with a whiff of lemon that adds the right amount of acidity for a zingy, savoury taste. Take some chickpeas, add tahini and you have Hummus. If you love Middle Eastern cuisine you know that hummus tastes different between eateries. Some have a strong lemon flavour, some have an overwhelming garlic flavour, and some hummus has a spicy tone. It’s the tahini that creates this wide variation in flavours. Making hummus without tahini is like making mashed potatoes without butter! You just don’t do it. The hummus here has a thick texture with a smooth consistency and very earthy tones. The chickpeas are ground to a good firmness which create a more natural taste. It’s flavoursome and well balanced, and that hint of garlic complements the overall nuttiness of the hummus mix, elevating its flavour profile. And there’s generous portions of the spread too. We can checkmark our bean and veggie intake for this week!
The wholegrain bun which is sourced locally is filled with veggies like lettuce, onion and tomatoes, all grown by Maltese farmers. These are topped with crunchy, tangy and pickled jalapenos. All this vegetable goodness sums up to a burger that has the power to appeal to the general burger-loving audience, as it has the right balance between flavour and lightness. After eating it, you’ll still feel like you can eat another one with no calorie remorse. And if you can’t have enough of the tahini and hummus inside the burger, you also get a dip on the side with more tahini, hummus, lemon and garlic, and a portion of nachos to munch your way through it all! Whilst we were there, we washed it all down with a super juice made from carrots, apple, lemon and ginger. That’s some green overdose to our usual beef burger regime!
We have to wholeheartedly agree with Balance Bowl that healthy food doesn’t have to be boring and the Squashed Tahini burger is living proof of that. Is it the most flavoursome vegetable burger in Gzira & Sliema? We have to acknowledge the thought, labour, serenity and love that has been put into making this burger. This one has managed to put a flavoured twist when we gave up all hopes and made us feel positive for all the right reasons. We’ve had quite a few sunny days this December. Next one up, we’re heading again to Sliema for another Squashed Tahini burger. And so should you!
