Feature

Squashed & Buttered

2018 is soon coming to an end, yet we persevere on our search for Malta’s premiere burgers made from vegetables. What’s great about veggie burgers is the opportunity to create something unique, with endless flavour combinations, from black bean to rice to exotic vegetables. In 2017 we’ve tried, tasted and tested 19 different vegetable-based burgers, discarded the bland ones and incinerated the cheaters made from frozen soy patties, and barely found 5 to build a hit list. Making a gratifying veggie burger is no child’s play. Was 2018 any different? Whilst others take a shortcut and copy, paste & link lists of 13 random vegetarian burgers they found through Facebook search, just for the sake of plopping commercial adverts on the side, we took our time and went around the Gzira & Sliema area to hunt for new burger offerings. This part of Malta is particularly dense with foreigners working for gaming companies and language students, consequently giving birth to an array of healthy & veggie-friendly eateries. And wherever there is good food, there’s always a good burger. Or so we thought.

We checked the usual suspects (Grassy Hopper, Dr Juice, J’Oli, Eeetwell) but only came across average to OKish burgers at best. We were underwhelmed. We were going to throw the towel and scream defeat from finding any prominent veggie burger, when we came across the Balance Bowl, a hip and trendy eatery hidden between blocks of apartments, that opened its doors some 3 months ago. Founded by three passionate foodies that met in London, these Charlie’s Angels of the veggie world visited Malta regularly before deciding to give a new spin to their livelihood and set up shop here.

Amidst bowls full of green pesto, Asian veggies, pasta, chickpea curry and even an unlimited salad buffet bar, we were lucky enough to stumble across a new burger on the menu they devised just a few days back. Going by the name of The Squashed Tahini, this burger is made from a whole Butternut Squash round as a patty. The concept of not using a mashed patty is very bold here, but make no mistake, it’s not done for novelty’s sake. This is marinated for hours in soy sauce, garlic, pepper and oil and left to cool down before it’s covered in a water & flour paste, breaded in panko and deep fried until it’s glistening and golden. The effect of panko really outshines other breading mixes here. Panko is made from white bread that has no crust, as opposed to the whole wheat variety, and here it creates a crispy, flaky and crunchy texture like no other veggie burger we tried out in Sliema in the last few days.

This patty was inspired by one of the most popular local vegetables, and Ewelina, the top woman in the kitchen, says that they wanted to elevate the bright butternut squash to celebrate locally sourced produce. Indeed this patty is a bomb full of fall flavours, with its sweet zest and soft pumpkin-like texture at the core. It’s so flavorful on its own, that you don’t even need to add much to it. But guess what? There is much added! That comes in the form of Tahini and Hummus which provide more than a kick of spice and flavour flair.

Tahini is a dense paste made from crushed sesame seeds, with hints of lemon juice and a gentle garlic note. This sauce is a staple throughout the Middle East as a dairy-free alternative to cream sauce. It’s a sort of peanut butter, except it’s more nutty and creamier, with a whiff of lemon that adds the right amount of acidity for a zingy, savoury taste. Take some chickpeas, add tahini and you have Hummus. If you love Middle Eastern cuisine you know that hummus tastes different between eateries. Some have a strong lemon flavour, some have an overwhelming garlic flavour, and some hummus has a spicy tone. It’s the tahini that creates this wide variation in flavours. Making hummus without tahini is like making mashed potatoes without butter! You just don’t do it. The hummus here has a thick texture with a smooth consistency and very earthy tones. The chickpeas are ground to a good firmness which create a more natural taste. It’s flavoursome and well balanced, and that hint of garlic complements the overall nuttiness of the hummus mix, elevating its flavour profile. And there’s generous portions of the spread too. We can checkmark our bean and veggie intake for this week!

The wholegrain bun which is sourced locally is filled with veggies like lettuce, onion and tomatoes, all grown by Maltese farmers. These are topped with crunchy, tangy and pickled jalapenos. All this vegetable goodness sums up to a burger that has the power to appeal to the general burger-loving audience, as it has the right balance between flavour and lightness. After eating it, you’ll still feel like you can eat another one with no calorie remorse. And if you can’t have enough of the tahini and hummus inside the burger, you also get a dip on the side with more tahini, hummus, lemon and garlic, and a portion of nachos to munch your way through it all! Whilst we were there, we washed it all down with a super juice made from carrots, apple, lemon and ginger. That’s some green overdose to our usual beef burger regime!

We have to wholeheartedly agree with Balance Bowl that healthy food doesn’t have to be boring and the Squashed Tahini burger is living proof of that. Is it the most flavoursome vegetable burger in Gzira & Sliema? We have to acknowledge the thought, labour, serenity and love that has been put into making this burger. This one has managed to put a flavoured twist when we gave up all hopes and made us feel positive for all the right reasons. We’ve had quite a few sunny days this December. Next one up, we’re heading again to Sliema for another Squashed Tahini burger. And so should you!

Hot Spicy Hank

When you are hit with that undying crave for American food, there’s only a handful of local places that can satisfy that itch. Henry J. Beans, who have been operating in Malta since 1995, are the original Americana. Curiously enough, the franchise has no American heritage as it was born in the UK. Yet their burgers have been nicknamed as Malta’s Legendary for the past 23 years, making Hank’s (as this place is known amongst regulars) a surefire spot for consuming all sort of comfort food and a pint of beer with friends. December seems to be prone to such gatherings more than any other month of the year, with Xmas and all, so rather than be disappointed by those Hard Rock guys for the umpteen time, we decided to check out what Hank’s been up to since our last visit.

This restaurant rarely changes shape and form, which is not a bad thing since the theme is very timeless. So imagine our surprise when we spotted a new burger on the menu! Good old Hank has sneakily added a new burger, without too much fanfare and parading! Looking closer, we can notice that a good part of their menu has been overhauled or fine-tuned, but that’s a story for another day. Today we give you Hank’s Hot Spicy burger!

We’ve seen a good share of spicy burgers in 2018. And even though the end of the year is trickling by, we still haven’t seen them all! Do we live in the age of Spicy? This age is bristling with good and evil. Good hot & spicy is the lip-tingling burn of well-balanced pepperish food. Good spicy is meant to add an element to the dish and not become the dish itself. Bad spicy grabs each of your taste buds and issues the pain of ten thousand needles. Or one thousand, if we don’t want to exaggerate. Bad spicy makes burgers angry in our books.

Just like its other legendary burgers, the new Hot Spicy is made from a 230gr patty of minced and blended cuts of ribeye, chuck roll and tenderloin. Unlike other franchises, the patties are not imported but are prepared at the Corinthia St. George’s kitchens, which is a very welcome approach. This same beef blend goes into all the burgers on the menu, and what we love most is the lavish and earthy tones that create that urging craveability from the first bite until the last. The fat from the ribeye adds some of that distinctive and rich flavour that this finer grain meat is more known for. This patty is indeed chockfull of beef aroma, maybe also thanks to the buttery and sublime texture of the tenderloin and is enveloped in pockets of juices. Seasoning is on point, and the char is not only a visual consideration but a palatable bonus too. Furthermore, the patty is spread with garlic butter, for an extra layer of gusto, and totally covered in jalapenos, which we presume make up the Hot part of the burger’s name. Chef Eric, who’s preparing this burger today, wants to make sure that you get 1 or 2 jalapenos with every bite. There is a thickness of a slightly nutty Emmental cheese on top, which melts beautifully and seals the jalapenos in place instead of having them cascade from the sides as soon as you take a good hold of the burger with two hands, squeeze and bite. That’s a sign of devilish construction!

The burger is served in an expertly toasted sesame seed bun which is made locally for Hank’s and layered with the obligatory mix of lettuce, tomato slices and onions. These add a slight vegetable snap to go along with the cheese’s creaminess. This bun has a good density and is a good candidate for a burger-bun, but the most noteworthy element here is the very spicy sauce, devised in-house by Chef Eric, and made from sriracha, Tabasco, black pepper and mayonnaise. This is spread bountiful on both halves of the bun, making sure you can’t get away from it! Names don’t come any bigger in the world of hot sauce than Tabasco and Sriracha, and here you get them both! This sauce lives up to its name, as it definitely brings your focus on the spiciest element of the whole burger. The heat is there, together with that powerful vinegar tang from the Tabasco, and the chilli and garlic flavours from the sriracha. This is the kind of heat that can be enjoyed by the novice spice eater, or overdosed on by those seeking the thrill to test their taste buds’ endurance. The plating is completed with coleslaw (a good spice cooler) and steakhouse fries served on the side. Pair your burger with a Blue Label ale, to make sure to extinguish any overbearing spices!

The burger is as large as we remember from past Hank’s offerings. Even so, it’s priced at around €12, which takes us back to a time before Badass started jacking up prices, making many of today’s burger offerings more within the €15 to €20 price range. When you can make a beef burger this good for such a decent price, you can’t but get two thumbs up from us. When done well, a spicy burger like this is the best example of good spicy. The heat brings out the bold taste of the beef patty, the creaminess of the Emmental, and the refreshing properties of the lettuce and tomatoes. It will have you reaching out for a cold beer instead of the fire extinguisher! This burger left us happy beyond any doubt, instead of angry with a burnt tongue.

Burger coi Baffi

Smart City… almost ghost town by day, and a favourite drinking spot for many during weekend nights. In early 2017 we checked out the place for potential star burgers, but we only found dry and uninspiring offerings. A countless number of similar online reviews confirmed our thoughts, so we obviously ran away like scared kids on Halloween night, and never went back. That’s until a merry family from Sicily came to the rescue. Enter Mustaccun!

Lucia, the woman of the house, her partner Mario who manages the kitchen and her lovely parents who take care of the rest of the establishment initially moved to Malta to manage the catering section of a band club in Birgu. In September of 2017, they saw an opportunity of a lifetime and moved to Smart City. That’s when they were dutifully tagged with the nickname of Mustaccuni since their regulars at the band club thought they were cooking star level food. And that’s how the restaurant got its name. Their mission was to convince us to come back to Smart City and wow us with their burger creation. Will we find the smartest burger, here in this family-run trattoria? We had to go and find out for ourselves.

Sveglia ragazzi! Wake up, guys! These Italians have put their experience in pizza making, added the elements of the burger patty, poured in a bucketload of veggies and came up with what they call a Maxi Veggie Pizza Burger! Maxi. Veggie. Pizza. Burger. Can you say that in one breath, 10 times in a row? Last July we built our own creation, merging the beloved burger and the ever-popular pizza. We also challenged local burger chefs to come up with their own version of the mythical pizza burger. What we never projected was that someone would make a veggie burger out of it! This burger story is getting enthralling by the minute.

Mario gets ready and prepares the bread base using non-GMO Neapolitan grade flour, water, sea salt and yeast. He uses a fast hand to work the dough with hardly a whisper. The dough is stretched by hand to move the air around so the final result will be a puffy bread with a crust. It’s left to proof and rest for 48hrs and put in the oven for a couple of minutes. Indeed this is the key to a great Neapolitan pizza base as the fermentation period causes the starches to break down into simpler sugars, yeast will create flavorful by-products, and gluten formation will occur, allowing for a dramatic rise and good charring in the oven. And that’s exactly what we got here, a 320gr bread loosely similar to the Maltese ftira in shape, but with a light and airy texture, akin the Neapolitan pizza base the Italians did 300 years ago. The symmetrical charr and the intense smell of baked bread are already alluring us closer.

This pizza bread is sliced in half and filled with a total orgasm of every vegetable you can think of, and more! The first layer comes in the form of a salad mix made from iceberg lettuce, rucola and cabbage, a tomato sauce spread, parmesan cheese and the obligatory drizzle of olive oil. This is topped with cucumbers, cherry tomatoes, spring onions and black olives to produce a truly colourful visual. But wait, there is more!

The burger element comes as 2 veggie patties, each one 120gr, and made from a potato puree, green beans, peas, sweet corn, and chopped carrots and onions. These are deep-fried and golden crusted, with potato fries added inside the burger itself! Ketchup and a generous amount of white sauce made from almond milk & parmesan are added on top. Next comes more parmesan cheese and 3 thick slices of smoked Scamorza, which is a typical cheese from the South of Italy.

The final veggie layer is made from grilled eggplant, sliced courgettes, onions, many peppers and a basil infused oil that adds a fresh and grassy flavour. This €12 burger deserves a green trophy of its own, just for the sheer amount of different raw veggies used in the mix! If you’re a vegetarian and don’t favour rennet, Mario will be more than happy to take the cheese out of the equation for you. We loved the combination of cheeses ourselves, as this veggie burger has an intense and balanced flavour, also thanks to the aroma of the baked bread that blends with the slight acidity of the tomato sauce. The savoury Parmesan and Scamorza cheeses, the freshness and crunchiness of the green leaves and even that aftertaste of spiciness and slight bitterness from the olive oil, all elevate the overall taste of the burger. The burger itself is massive in size promising a full belly, and eating it all is made more arduous with the addition of extra green veggies and many potato fries spread on the circular tray that it comes on.

This is one burger in a league of its own, as it has taken the veggie concept to extremes! If you’re a big eater and have a pet hate for anything veggie, this is the one you need to try out! And if you manage to eat it all you will get a cardboard cutout of a moustache to put on your face, take a selfie and brand your new achievement! You’re now a true Mustaccun con le balle!

But wait! Where is our Sicilian cannolo? Even if you don’t fancy burgers, visiting Mustaccun for an espresso and some classical Italian pastries is a worthwhile experience. Take our word for it, try their semifreddo, either the banana one or the chocolate coffee, or the cannolo filled with ice cream and pistachio, which is their own take on the classic cannolo filled with ricotta. Or just try one of everything, because you will be spoilt for choice! All these pastries, cakes and tarts are Mustaccun innovations, made to order by a local Italian pastry chef. Forget the American monstrosities from Shoreditch, these are refined pastries for the connoisseur and the true buongustaio! If Mustaccun keeps coming up with such decadent delicacies, we’re sure that we will be back soon in the new year!

The Mad Rancher

What’s happening in Marsaskala? Wied il-Għajn has been categorically turning into a Burger-Wonderland since 2017. Luckily, there are no McD or Burger King in sight, so eaters can truly enjoy one of the copious burger offerings from the local ensemble of restaurants. And believe us when we say that this place is brimming with quality burgers, as we’ve been there, and tried them all! A new and notable burger spot on the rise is Mad Hatter. In Alice’s Wonderland, the Mad Hatter and the March Hare are tea party friends, but our Hatter is mad about burgers! Both characters are painted on a red wall that takes up one side of the restaurant, and they laughingly stare at you, as you enjoy your burger. Just like Alice’ rabbit tunnel, this hole in the wall that initially looks like a bar, deceives the eyes.

Although the place has been around for years, last August it was taken over by Keith Gatt, a young chef who has been working in and out of kitchens for the last 7 years or so. Since then, Keith has been churning out new burger after burger, almost every week, sprucing up his Burger menu to an unbelievable array of diverse burger options. And this is where we came across the burger of this week, aptly named The Rancher. This burger is made from 240gr of local chuck beef and topped with 2 slices of smoked cheese, a meat-hill made from pulled pork and drenched in thick bbq sauce, and crowned with crispy onions all battered in flour. All is encased in a 5-inch wide brioche bun. All these elements tick all the boxes to make this burger qualify as something out of a Texas ranch! You also get lettuce, tomatoes and pickles on the side, but they seem superfluous here. This is obviously a big burger aimed at the most primordial carnivorous eaters! This is the kind of chunky burger that our buddy, Big Bertu the Burgernator would devour on the go, but we could not send him this time, as he’s away testing burgers in Ireland.

There are numerous techniques to create a burger patty that impresses us. Keith is using prime chuck here, which has been ground course for good measure and consistency. A coarse mince is a surefire formula for success, as it gives the best texture. There’s also very little place for finely ground beef in a burger, as this generally produces a somewhat dry, crumbly patty unworthy of any notice. Generally, ground chuck has much less fat compared to other cuts of beef. But, this beef shrinks less during grilling and also provides enough fat content to add a gratifying level of flavour. According to a Fort Valley State University College program, many people cannot even taste the difference between ground chuck and something like sirloin! We can, and the flavour here is meaty and palatable, making a perfect base for a Texas quality burger. Chuck is cut from the shoulder, and sometimes it might turn dry when cooked beyond medium-rare. This was not the case here, as the patty is greatly charred, with a crunchy exterior that has been seared to sizzle-crisp, and tenderly chin-dripping juicy in the centre. This patty is pure beef in its simplest form, as it has nothing more than minced beef and seasoning, instilling that sense of optimism and fulfilment that good beef brings along. The scent of this grilled burger alone gives you the chills!

As much as we loved the chuck beef, the pulled pork deserves a notorious mention of its own. The amount of pork looks even more astounding than the 240gr patty itself, which is something that big eaters always welcome! The secret to pulled pork is using a flavorful rub and cooking it low and slow. This pork has been painstakingly prepared and pulled into moist strands by Keith himself. It’s sweet, savoury and subtly spicy with a tangy kick. And most important of all, it rocks with the silky smooth and delicious BBQ vibes that provide a marvellous browning! It’s ludicrously tender, succulent and moist that it legitimately ticks all our taste bud boxes! And there’s quite a lot of it, as in messy lot! It’s lick your fingers clean, major-league BBQ at it’s finest, so we were more than glad to eat it all without breaking a sweat! The BBQ flavour is strong and takes over the whole burger, so if you like BBQ flavoured burgers, this is the real deal in the whole Marsaskala-land! This is not the family-style BBQ pork shoulder you are used to, this is something you only get to eat when celebrating a lifetime achievement or after winning the gold jackpot!

Everyone agrees that fried onions are a great topper on a classic burger. For some, there’s no better crunchy comfort food on the planet than crispy fried onions! So it’s no coincidence that these made their way in the Rancher burger. These onions are golden crisped, and have a somewhat light texture and are crazy delicious. They are oh-so-oniony, yet when floured they don’t seem like veggies amidst all the meat! We could pluck them out of the sides of the burger one by one, and eat them all day long! They are also a staple in Cowboy burgers from Texas. Life’s problems are finally solved!

No burger should come without fries, and this one is no exception. These are premium crunch fries from Belgium, and some of them might actually even come from Malta! They are seasoned with Himalayan salt, pepper & garlic. It’s a truism that bears repeating: One of the greatest differences between ejja-ha-mmorru kitchen workers and professional cooks is that the pros use a lot more salt in their creations. And thanks God for that, as these fries are sublimely salted. These fries have a very light crust, a starchy inside, are fried well and have a nice potato flavour and texture.

If you find yourself eating silently, eyes closed, overlooking everything around you, you have come upon a burger that can be pronounced as an accomplishment. That’s what it felt like eating the Rancher burger at the Mad Hatter. We’re sure that we will be back sooner than later here, as Keith has managed to come up with a good number of burger inventiveness that you don’t need to wait for summer to visit Marsaskala again.

The Gold Standard Surf n Turf

Last September, after almost 6 years of checking and testing burgers in Malta and all over Europe, we found one that scored 90+ points in our books. What were the odds of finding a second one, anytime soon? Well, rejoice burger lovers, as today we have found a Surf & Turf burger with a Gold Star merit, in the most unexpected of places!

Never like in 2018, there has been such a peak in superior burgers and a spike in chef creativeness. Coming up with a Gold Standard burger is no easy feat. The Gold is reserved for those burgers that are extraordinary beyond belief. Those meat & bread creations that are handcrafted from scratch and display gastronomic techniques that are not usually associated with burger grilling. And so, can you imagine our bewilderment, when we came across one such burger, in a Sliema Take-Away?!

The typical Maltese Take-Away is generally not considered material for Gold Stars. Most are greasy corner shops, with no particular health standards, and are renown for frozen & reheated food. Everyone knows that, which is a very unfortunate matter. Chef Darren Zammit wanted to change that misconception. Having spent 12 years working in and out of kitchens in the UK, Darren moved to Malta with the intent of setting up a Take-Away concept with high-level Gourmet standards. He did that at Le Poisson in Bormla, elevating anything fish to new standards. You could have fresh pasta with fish and classic fish & chips cooked right there and then whilst you waited. Some 3 months ago Darren moved over to a new Take-Away, tucked away in Rudolph Street, Sliema, aptly named Sea Salt. And this is where we caught up with him, and his new burger-making venture. Darren immediately strikes you as a jolly and very hard working individual, with a penchant for quality gourmet food. Every dish, whether it’s a burger or a sea bass, is prepared on the spot, so it does take some time, as it’s cooked to the individual’s liking. Whilst you wait for your food, you get a free show of Darren literally juggling pots and pans, building all the components of your burger from scratch. This is a crazy concept, unlike anything we’ve ever seen… we wish all Take-Aways were like this!

The Gold Star surf & turf burger in question is made from a 180gr beef patty and is topped with deep fried floured calamari and a whole Sicilian red prawn. All is covered in bisque sauce, and sandwiched between a brioche bun drizzled in lemon vinaigrette and layered with rucola. The heart of every burger is the meat patty itself, but most would agree that surf & turf burgers are an exception as there are multiple key ingredients that make such a burger tick and work. Indeed, when you think of Surf & Turf, you probably think of a steak and lobster. Surf and turf’s origin story is shrouded in mystery, with different restaurants all across North America arguing for the onliest title of who did it first! It’s a curious combination that sprung from America’s fascination with the continental cuisine of the 60s. Together on a plate, surf & turf became a plush status symbol for the upwardly and fashionable class.

Enough gastronomic history. Let’s talk about the meat element. The patty is made from a combination of chuck & brisket, imported from Ireland. The patty is pan seared in olive oil so all juices are contained within and then left to rest. Chuck is a very popular beef cut to use in burgers, but adding brisket changes the flavour formula to something more unique and individual. Old school butchers made burgers mostly out of chuck, or more specifically, chuck roll. It’s as classic as you can get, yielding a high-fat burger made from the shoulder area of the animal that comes across as juicy rather than greasy. Hands down, it’s our favourite cut to grind. On the other hand, brisket is more of a blue-collar cut, as it has a distinct super beefy flavour profile that will yield a rich burger with an elevated attitude. Together they make a bomb of a patty that is buttery, has a robust flavour, but a soft airy texture filled with meaty juices. Only an ambitious cook will go the extra mile and make something as complex as a granulated burger, combining 2 diverse cuts of ground beef to create a loosely grained patty. This also illustrates a larger point about effort and technique, and why only a handful of burgers deserve the Gold standard in our books. No one can argue that the result is, well, a meaty delicacy. This isn’t just any burger, it’s an exquisitely complex burger with a patty that is carefully hand-ground, gently shaped and expertly sizzled. If the patty wasn’t impeccable, your burger would never live up to its juicy, beefy and satisfying potential. And this one was juicy, toothsome and as epically enjoyable as it can get.

As soon as you step into an express food shop called Sea Salt, the first thing you expect is fish & crustaceans. And this one does not disappoint. The next burger element worth of note is the calamari. Here they come as deep fried, flour-coated squid. Squid meat is firm and white with a mild, slightly sweet, almost nutty flavour. And most importantly it’s low in saturated fats. Frying calamari in deep-oil is one of the best squid-cooking methods. These crusty little morsels are the crispiest squid we’ve tasted so far this year. Just imagine the lightest, crispiest, melt-in-your-mouth-iest coating over the most tender squid, and this would be it! By comparison, they are a lot lighter than their Italian cousins, which are usually heavily coated with cornmeal. These fried calamari do hit the spot where it counts most. Squid tends to have a somewhat mild flavour, so one has to be attentive what sauce to use, as this would mask its delicate taste. We like it with salt alone, maybe a little lemon, but if you crave a sauce, there’s the prawn bisque.

The bisque sauce is a perfect addition here, as it brings forth an explosion of oceanic flavour, without afflicting the rest of the burger elements. This bisque is mainly made with a mix of browned veggies, flaming brandy and prawns. Bisque is a smooth and creamy French soup, usually interfused with crustaceans, and here it’s presented in sauce form. It adds a level of deeply rich creaminess and a velvety-smooth flavour of prawns and sea. The more you taste it, the more you wish there was. Which would bring in an engineering problem. Too much and the burger becomes too messy, whilst too little will result in you feeling robbed and cheated! This creamy, dreamy and tangy bisque dripping down the side of your burger is well justified. Listen, if we are going to go surf and turf with a burger, let’s not cut any corners! However, our burgers were very manageable to eat barehandedly, with no messy fingers aftermaths.

The last burger element packing a hefty sapid punch is the bright and fiery red prawn, filled with white and compact pulp. The melt-in-your-mouth texture and rich creamy flavour is what distinguishes this variety of Sicilian prawn from other oceanic counterparts. This makes it a bit more costly than other small seafood, but the tasting experience is worth every cent. Darren is not cutting any corners here and wanted to jam-pack his burger creation with seafood. All the beef and seafood are sandwiched in a pillowy yet sturdy toasted bun. This brioche bun is much wider than the standard variety we all know of. It’s also drizzled with a lemon vinaigrette made from lemons, olive oil, mustard and garlic, and it tastes amazing. Indeed, the first bite was sublime, the crunchy calamari and the juicy beef patty pairing exceptionally together, with a stupendous boost from the phenomenal bisque. Obviously, the red prawn has to be tasted separately, and its raison d’etre is to provide a gratifying bite intermission. This is for sure a decadent burger that will undoubtedly satisfy all seafood lovers. Such a burger will be very hard to beat. It’s surf and turf at its finest.

There’s one more thing. The fries! These are freshly cut potatoes that go through a 1½ day process of preparation. They are boiled in water & doused in vinegar and left to rest before they are blanched in an ice bath. They are ultimately deep fried until they end up in your mouth. We’re sure that Darren was inspired from his many years in the UK as this is a common pub snack all over the British Isles. These chunky and scrumptious potatoes have a very addictive salty-sourness, which we adore, and are definitely Top 5 Fries hitlist material. That salty, acidic crunch is totally addictive and unforgettable. Crave on, these tangy and crispy chips can be enjoyed for dinner time, lunch, and why not, even breakfast! We’re heading back to Sliema for some more…

Chilling by the Sliema seafront

We all need a little bit of spice every now and then and for us burger lovers, that often comes in the form of meat between a bun. Some demand every element in their burger to be outright spicy whilst other can barely handle Hot Cheetos. For the latter, Spicy burgers have a bad reputation of turning those of us with sensitive taste buds into crybabies. That might be because for the past few years, the likes of the Reaper, Scorpion, Ghost pepper and what-have-you, have been terrorising the faint of heart! But fear not, now there’s a new spicy burger in town, that aims to change that conception.

Juan Diego Grech has been working in and out of kitchens for the past 6 years. One year ago he took over the position of head chef at Torri and together with his culinary team of burger makers, he has conceived a chilli burger in the middle of one August heatwave day. His aim was to make a hot burger that can be enjoyed by all. Did he succeed? We went to Sliema seafront to investigate further…

Historically known as the De Redin Tower, Torri was one of the thirteen towers built along Malta’s coastline during the mid-1600s. In the 1870s this tower was used for coastal service and was manned by members of the Royal Malta Fencible Artillery under the supervision of the Police. In the mid-1920s it was converted into a provisional kiosk, and it has been used so for the next thirty years. Extensive restoration works were carried out at the beginning of the new millennium bringing the tower up to its current state. New management reopened Torri last February, and the tower was cleared from the inside and new architectural lighting installed. What a history!

Inside the Chilli burger, there’s a 240gr beef patty, made from chuck roll, and seasoned with thyme & sweet onion. The patty is massaged with sunflower & olive oil before it’s grilled. Chuck tends to be on the lean side, but this patty is devilishly juicy. The patty goes on top of a toasty brioche bun, laden with tomato slices. Next up, there’s a layer of spicy caramelised onions that add a good crunch and chunks of vanilla-poached chilli peppers. These chillis are cultured in-house, and grown in the many planters found around Torri! They also add a bit more colour and design and structure to the whole burger. The vanilla flavour is very contrasting with the strong chillies, and we believe that they add a unique dimension that is seldom tasted in local burgers. It kind of works wonders here and enhances the overall burger experience. This burger does smell great! These veggies are melded in place with a smoked cheese fondue made from mozzarella, parmesan & nutmeg. This mellow cheese sauce is tasty and the slight fruity sensation helps cool down the chilli heat. This sauce is so good that we wish that the whole burger was covered in it! The final burger element comes in the form of a large heap of rucola, which adds a clean, peppery taste that contrasts the richness of the meat.

This is a chilli burger, and as such, there’s an evident percentage of fieriness present. However, this heat helps to push the other ingredients to another level of flavour. Once each bite goes past your throat, the heat gives way to rich, meaty, cheesy flavours, with a very uncommon vanilla aftertaste that is bound to please. Mind you, this is far from the chilliest burger we’ve ever come across, but the main concept is all about balance. This was made for those who like to savour their burgers without having their mouth scorched, even if it is laced with sublime chilli peppers. And if you’re still ultra sensitive to chillies, we have a quick hack… just put the coleslaw that comes as a side, inside the burger itself! For those who always kept back from trying out spicy burgers, now there’s a safe option to finally go for it!

Chicken & Chips @ Queen’s

Hands up all those Millennials who love the McChicken!
Fried chicken seems to be the most popular burger option after the undeniable beef. It’s a favourite of many Maltese as much as it is in Kentucky.

Today we spotted a new International franchise in town, that has a chicken burger hidden amongst their potato fries menu! Truth is, we came for the fries, but were intrigued by the chicken burger! Queen’s Chips is an Amsterdam style chip shop that opened its doors last July, on National French Fries day, right next to Paceville’s Burger King. How will their chicken burger fare against the palate proven offerings from other established express burger joints? Even though we’re awed and distracted by the aroma of fries, we’re driven to find out!

Queen’s Chips started as an Italian franchise and shortly became renown for its paper cone Dutch-style fries. Just in case you wonder, it has no affiliation with the pastizzeria in Hamrun! They only have one chicken burger on their menu, so you don’t have to spend endless minutes wondering what to order! And their chicken burger focuses on the essential basics, as it’s made from a crispy minced chicken patty, sandwiched between a soft, pillowy bun, and layered with fresh Maltese lettuce. But here’s the twist, that’s going to propel this burger ahead of other express burger joints. Queen’s Chips have upped the ante, by letting you choose the burger sauce from a selection of 20 wild flavours! And when we say Wild, we do mean it. There’s everything from a whisky sauce, to curry ketchup, Moroccan, black pepper, Algerian and Tartar, just to name a few.

The chicken patty is made from 120gr of breaded chicken fillet, fried at 175°C. It has an oblong shape and is enormous when compared to something like Burger King’s Crispy Chicken offering, as it hangs out lasciviously from both ends of a standard-sized bun. Patties are fried in an own container, so they do not spoil the oil and mix with the fries. Queen’s Chips are using very modern friers, with automatic temperature control to keep the oil stable whether they are doing 1 or 5 burgers at a time. This yields a chicken patty that is moist and tender, and most importantly, very consistent. The consistency is that of white meat that has been ground fine and shredded all the way with no chewy knuckle bits and with a crunchy seasoned batter shell, that sports a golden colour ready to dazzle and delight. The breading is crispy enough, making it edgier than the classic McChicken. The batter is most probably made from wheat or corn, with a dusting of very light spices. The crunchy and uniform breading and tasty chicken inside checks all the prerequisite boxes for great flavour.

The slightly savoury bun is very fluffy and seedless. It squishes under very little pressure, but all it needs to do is hold the lettuce and chicken, and it does a good job at that. Apart from the chicken itself, the sauce is the second most exciting element. These signature sauces are made in Belgium and they pair well with the kick of the chicken’s seasoning. Any of these sauces seem to compliment with a touch of creaminess and controlled messiness! We tried the Cheesy Crazy (to experience the maximum messiness effect) which has a very strong cheese aroma. If you like American cheese with your chicken burger, this is the one to go for. There’s also the more classic tartar sauce, with onion, parsley and mixed herbs. But really, the obligatory game here is to never choose the safest option and go berserk in your choice!

The burger is presented in wrapping paper, to avoid sauce spills. This minimalist approach works perfectly in like with Paceville’s mood & environment. It also looks much more triumphant that those McD mashed burgers, where you wonder if the prep guy angrily smashed both fists into the bun, before lovingly wrapping it in paper!

As if not content enough with the burger, we also tried out the Kentucky chicken strips. And boy, we’re so glad we did! Chicken strips are the most glorious incarnation of handheld fried chicken. They’re heftier than nuggets and simpler to munch on than wings. We couldn’t resist from pimping up our burger and incorporate these strips INSIDE the burger itself, to build our own one-of-a-kind QUEEN’s MEGA burger! Now we’re talking big-league business!

These strips are made from fillet pieces, or what looks like the white meat that is located on either side of the breastbone. Unlike the burger patty, they have a plump texture and lumpy chunks of Kentucky flavoured seasoning that gives KFC a good run for their money, as they have a true and certain distinction with a more verve spiciness. There’s a superlative crunch from their thick breading, without any overpowering of the overall chicken flavour, which is slightly salty and rich. The consistency of the crispness is huge. A sort of buttery taste develops after the first 3 bites or so, something which we liked and urged us to consume even more of these. These chicken strips are quite hefty and burly, and there’s a considerable amount of chicken with a fibrous texture in each one. We could barely fit 2 inside our burger. They are a chicken meal by themselves, even without the aid of dipping sauces. Not that you should skip on the sauce. It’s just that between one saucy strip and another, sometimes one needs to enjoy the taste of the naked chicken piece itself.

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Just like us, you will most probably stop by Queen’s Chips for the inhouse specialty, the fries. And they won’t disappoint. When it comes to fries, this is where the similarity with any other express food joints ends. If you plan on ordering a large portion of chips, think twice, because their large is nothing like anything you’ve seen… it’s large as in 1 KILO large! The small and medium are 250gr and 500gr respectively so they might be more manageable for us mere humans! The potatoes are imported as whole fresh potatoes from Holland. Dutch potatoes are known for their unique characteristics, energetic flavour, compact texture and an ideal consistency for frying. They are fried in 2 stages in sunflower oil before making their way into your mouth, thus earning them the nickname of Double Dutch Fries! They are first fried at a low temperature to remove excess moisture from the potatoes. After a resting period of 20 minutes, they are fried a second time for a short timespan, this time at a much higher temperature to create a thick chip that is moist from inside and crispy on the outside, making them the definitive must-try french fries in Paceville, and overall Top 5 potato chips material.

Do you know why the Dutch can eat French fries with mayonnaise and not become obese? It’s all in the daily biking! Speaking of mayo, you can also add extra extravagant sauces to your chips, and we suggest the Samurai, which is a pinkish dry and spicy sauce or the Curry ketchup, with its oriental spiced flavour. Even though we loaded them with sauce, the fries didn’t get soggy so easily, and that’s another attribute that scores high in our books. And just like in Holland, we predict that these will dominate the Paceville street food scene by the end of the year!

As if the fries were not enough, here’s an extra bonus from Queen’s Chips… Crunchy churros covered with white or standard chocolate sauce! These big sticks of cinnamony-sugary heaven are very popular all over Latin America and Spain, but in recent years they have spread all across Europe. They are made from fried dough and taste similar to fried pastry, albeit a bit saltier. They do taste as delicious as they look.

These days, the Paceville food scene is overcrowded with all kind of restaurants and express food corners, but Queen’s Chips have managed to disrupt these standards with a chips novelty, and a supporting list of street food that is a big notch above other burger franchises. We’re definitely keeping an eye on them, for future surprises, as all this writing made us crave for more chicken & chips!

Pizza at the Top

Last July we built our own creation, merging two food icons: the beloved burger and the ever-popular pizza. We also challenged Maltese burger chefs to come up with their own version of the mythical pizza burger. One Daniel Callus, of Pavilion fame, was ballsy enough to independently come up with a Pizzatop burger! Can it deliver the crustiness of the pizza and the beefiness of the burger? That’s just what we’re going to find out today!

We already have a history with the Pavilion Gastro Pub, a spacious restaurant built on the historic site of the naval and military prison at Corradino Hill. Chef Daniel, who has a capacious affinity with both burger and pizza making, has put his experience in merging both worlds in one piece de resistance. He minces Angus chuck himself to create a 200gr patty, which is grilled and seasoned with just rock salt. The beef is topped with cheddar, mushrooms and crispy Parma ham, and laid over a bed of crunchy rucola and 2 slices of tomatoes. The lower half of the bun is spread with a sauce, that is a well-kept secret of Daniel’s. That’s the burger part. The pizza is made from the top half of the same bun, which is made in-house at the Eat Me I’m Famous bakery, part of the same group of restaurants. This part of the bun is chopped in two and the very top layer is discarded. The rest is spread with tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, slices of pepperoni and oregano, and baked in a traditional pizza oven.

The bun is fluffy and tasty and when oven-baked works well as an alternative to classic pizza dough. Not all buns are up to the task, especially when it comes to hefty burgers with a lot of meat inside. This one holds really well and does not crumble all over when the time to bite comes. It shows that it has been specifically built to handle the job the right way round. The slight spiciness of the pepperoni works amazingly well with the decadent mozzarella and tomato base. It has all the salt, piquancy and heat in good balance, with a little spike of acidity. This sinful pizza-bread has proved to be insanely cheesy, which provides a contrast to the lighter, more refreshing parma ham, inside the burger itself. Daniel should start doing these pizza-breads as starters, as they will definitely be a big-bang hit with a pint of beer!

The most important aspect when making a burger always boils down to the meat. A combination of having the right cut of beef, the right grind and the right fat ratio set you off to a triumphant start. Chuck is a primary beef cut which we always enjoy. The muscles at the top of the shoulder, where the chuck is found, are interspersed with small loops of fat, which give the patty a great steak-like texture. Chuck is a hard-working group of muscles, so blandness is rarely an issue. Fresh ground chuck creates a more tender patty because it’s never compacted tightly together. It also has the perfect ratio of meat to fat, which is around 80/20. Plus, the fat isn’t as fibrous as something like brisket. And the coarse grind of the meat can almost be felt whilst carving your way bit by bit, each bite bringing a beautiful combination of flavour, moisture and overall burger joyfulness. It’s well-marbled, has a distinctive char with nice accents, and almost drips wholesome goodness with every bite or squeeze. And most important of all, it fills the bun perfectly, making for a very aesthetically pleasing view, as you see the server approaching, with your burger impending nearer and nearer!

The secret sauce resides on the bottom of the bun so it can soak well into the bread, coat the meat, mix with the beef juices that drip down, and anchor the patty in place. This is a cunning strategy. The amount of sauce is very generous which is always welcome, especially since this one is tangy and has a certain zip to it that goes well with this burger. Even though we could pick up the nuances of the sauce in every bite, it’s not dominant but is balanced nicely with the beef. We could eat the pizza-bread with just the secret sauce and the rucola, tomato and mushrooms, and it would still rate as superb!

If you ever wondered what it is like to taste a burger and a pizza in the same bite, then this should be the next burger on your to-eat list! With the Pizzatop burger, Daniel Callus has proven himself to be at the very top of his game, and right now he’s one of the most innovative burger makers on the island. He puts the same level of focus in every burger component, whether its the beef, the earthiness of mushrooms, the sizzling crisp on the parma ham or the conversion of a bread bun into a mini pizza. And that kind of dedication and fine burger making skills always ends up with top marks in our books.

Big Burger grinding at The Mill

Some see burgers as a revered form of sandwich bliss, whilst others are content enough with a quick satisfying bite from an express food joint. For many chefs, a burger is a vehicle for copious creativity and full-on flavours, a form of food that can be stripped down to the basic elements of meat, cheese, bun and a couple of condiments, yet create a sensation just as flavorful and satisfying as the most abounding gourmet meal. And that’s what we found at the end of this summer season at The Mill, an ex-corner snack bar right next to Mcast in Naxxar that until some 3 months ago was still selling sandwiches and soda. Today it has been turned inside out and painstakingly transformed into a very chic gastropub.

Chef Chris has spent 15 years working in kitchens of all sorts. His aim at The Mill is to create a full burger menu, where simplicity is the key. Such a case in point is Ryan’s Burger, a duplex patty tower made from two 200gr beef patties, cheese, onions, gherkins, lettuce, tomatoes and bbq sauce. Our first conspicuous question: Who is this Ryan? The burger is named after big-eater Ryan, a popular character at The Mill, and is built for real SAVAGE eaters! If you like massive, tasty burgers, this is the one to go for! Will we manage to eat it all?

This burger is definitely all about the meat. The two beef patties are made from 200gr of short rib, brisket and chuck roll. This mix creates an 85% beef vs 15% fat patty that has an ideal fat-to-meat ratio and makes for a well-balanced succulent burger characterised by that strong chargrill taste that we all love. The patties are seasoned with just rocksalt & fine pepper so you can enjoy all the goodness of our local beef at its best. Chef Chris has tried 12 different types of patty combinations before finding this right mix. Indeed the patties have a good amount of crumble and stability and are well grilled from edge to edge with a crispy charred surface, and a moist luscious centre. Sometimes we come across patties with a texture that is too fine and feels like beef pate. Too rough and the patty will look like a flattened meatloaf. Too chewy, and it feels like you’re munching on an old tire! This beef has a springy bounce to it, with ample texture to seduce your mouth. Indeed, it’s all about the grind. It’s not overpacked or too dense, and there are enough air pockets filled with juice that are naturally redistributed and recirculated within the meat. We were able to take a bite or three without it falling apart piece by piece.

Both patties are adorned with melted Edam cheese. A nice delicate cheese is always a burger favourite, especially when it’s slightly salty and nutty. But putting too much or too little cheese is always a juggling feat and can be a deal breaker for many. Luckily that’s not the case here! The cheese is topped with deep-fried crispy onions, slices of pickled gherkins and a chipotle bbq sauce. The sauce is smoky and sweet and teases your palette with the slight heat of the peppers inside, hailing it a cut above the rest of other more standard barbeque sauces. It also adds more depth and compliments the other veggie toppings without making the burger too messy. The lettuce and jumbo tomato slices at the base of the burger are handpicked directly from the local Pitkali market. Using fresh lettuce, tomatoes and onions help bring a crisp texture and flavour depth that makes this burger scream fresh. The tomatoes bring a moderate level of acidity and somehow help prolong that lingering taste of the beef. Balancing the tomato with a leaf of lettuce and the beef delivers a non-stop explosion of sapidity!

The brioche bun squeals for attention as it has been adorned with extra coloured sesame seeds! It serves its purpose well, but we wish that the sesame seeds would adhere more to the top of the bun and not spill all over. There’s also a jumbo gherkin on top, with a bucket of solid fries as main accompaniment.

The Ryan burger has a sort of magical cohesiveness between the amount of meat, toppings and bun. In the end, we managed to eat it all with some extra encouragement! It has an own identity in this very competitive world of burgers and is the perfect end of summer burger and highlights the benefits of mixing good cuts of beef to create a champion patty. We now wonder how The Mill will manage to surprise us again, with their forthcoming Winter menu…

Kennedy loved Chicken burgers!

V18 has kickstarted a topical chapter in the nightlife of the old Capital. With literally hundreds of restaurants populating every nook and corner of the straightest streets in Malta, we embarked on a mission to trace the most entertaining burger that Valletta has to offer. We were looking for glitz, exquisite taste, nonconformity and food inventiveness. So we ended up in the most indecorous part of Strait Street, known to Valletta’s residents from the golden age, as The Gut… or the old Red Light district to you and me! After 50 odd years of neglect, the area has been turned inside out, into glimmering diners and bar quarters. One of the first places to open its doors in October 2017 was The Kennedy. Probably named after JFK’s assassination in the sixties, this is a mix of gastropub and hipster hangout. The owners handcrafted the interiors with everything vintage, with a hint of shabby chic, from the solid wood bar to all sort of paraphernalia hanging on the walls. If you’re looking for whiskey, gin and tapas, this is the nightlife hub to be. If you’re looking for one of the most interesting chicken burgers we came across this summer, this is the place to be too!

Dione has been working in and out of kitchens for the past 12 years. He literally runs Kennedy’s whole kitchen operation on his two hands, and that’s the way he likes things. He’s also the brains behind the Sweet Home Avocado burger, a chicken burger with a strong Spanish flair. There are 2 thick pieces (200gr) of chicken breasts, coated in a mix of buttermilk and panko. Each one is covered with layers of guacamole sauce and cheddar cheese, with battered onion rings wedged in between. Everything is encased in a brioche bun, with cherry tomatoes and rucola at the base.

The chicken is fried a level of golden crisp on the outside, with a succulent and tender core. It has a wonderful crunchy coating with a splendid flavour, due to the crafty use of panko, which in itself is extremely light. The buttermilk also helps add a delicious layer of juiciness, making us extremely pleased with the tangy tenderization that it provides. No one likes dry burgers, and unfortunately, we’ve had not a few encounters with dry chicken breasts in the past weeks. Due to the high acid content, buttermilk will help cut into the chicken and impart any spices you add. This is part of the secret process that KFC used, but seem to have lost along the years, as their current chicken fillets are nowhere as good as this one.

Guacamole is a traditional sauce used in Mexican cuisine. If it was good for the Aztecs, then it’s definitely good on our chicken too! The avocado is savoury like a vegetable but botanically-wise it’s a fruit. When it’s ripe and you mash it into a paste and add lemon, cilantro, chiles and tomatoes, you get Guacamole. This sauce is perfectly smooth, refreshing and spicy and it’s a welcome replacement for mayonnaise. This bold peppery flavour on top of the chicken provides a satisfying palette with much zest, that makes this burger both interesting and fresh. There’s also a layer of sharp Cheddar cheese that adds a smooth and seasoned creamy kick. This burger is loaded with onion rings, and there’s a lot of them! They are not garnished on top of the bun, but crammed inside, in their own layer, between the chicken breasts. They are thick and sweet, with a good flavour on the crumb. The rucola and tomatoes used are from local fresh produce, and bring colour and vibe to the looks of the burger, with a little wet crunch taste. Truth is, there’s very little replacement for the tangy fresh juiciness of a tomato, or how the bright flavours interact with chicken.

You can either get fries, wedges or sweet potatoes as the main accompaniment to the burger. The sweet potatoes were surprisingly & stupendously crispy and seem like the best choice. You also get coleslaw and ketchup sauce in fancy containers that go well with the decor.

This is one fiesta of a chicken burger aimed for those who urge to experience flavours beyond what they’re already familiar with when it comes to burgers. It’s also a big & solid eat that will satisfy your craving for chicken for the whole day! And just like The Gut itself, if you like venturing far beyond the boundaries of beef burgers, then you will find the Sweet Home Avocado to be a surefire hit.